Just a quick mention that we're doing inventory July 13th for the morning. We'll be back at 1:30pm. We're here to answer phones!
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Although we've talked about arthritis before, this time let's talk about our feline friends! 

    First, we need to realize that cats don't show pain the same was as a human or a dog! We often have people ask about their pet slowing down on walks or struggling up stairs, but the fact that their cat has stopped climbing to the top of the cat tree or now pulls themselves up instead of jumping cleanly goes unnoticed! 40% of cats over 7 years of age has arthritis and 90% of cats over 12 years of age have arthritis. Common locations are elbows and hips!

Here's a fun interactive tool to explore looking for arthritis in your cat! In a nutshell, a change in behaviour is your flag. We've got a bigger list below but some examples include:

• Pulling up instead of jumping.
• Hesitating when jumping up.
• Doing smaller jumps (eg jumping to a chair, then the counter). 
• Sleeping in new places. 
• Reduced play
• Elimination mistakes (peeing or pooping outside the box)

This is particularly the case if they injured a joint previously or had an abnormal joint to start with. There are many things you can do as an owner to help your cat continue to live an active, happy, pain free life despite this condition. While many of these overlap with dogs, here is the feline version including a NEW therapy just for our felines! 
 
1. Weight control. 
          It's hard, but a lot of our cats (especially indoor ones) are overweight. The weight makes arthritis more painful and speeds along the development of more arthritis. If your pet is overweight, please talk to the veterinary team about organizing a plan for controlled weight loss (and check out the section HERE). Cats, however, don't burn fat well. Thisis why we have to very careful with dieting cats. If they try to use their fat, they can end up dumping it into the liver and causing life-threatening liver disease. We want SLOW weight loss in our cats, achieved with a combination of increased movement and lower calories. Your vet is the best resource for creating a weight loss plan that is safe and effective.
 
2. Accessibility
​                Adjust your environment. Give them a step up to the bed. Get a low-sided litter box or cut the edge down for ease of access. Move their favourite bed down. Use gentle play to get them moving without it being a strain. Jumping is hard on joints!

3. Supplements
            Many supplements can reduce inflammation in the joint AND reduce the amount of medications required to maintain an already painful condition. Quality-controlled products from reputable sellers provide peace of mind that the label is accurate and the product consistent. 
           Glucosamine alone has little effect; its success is improved by being mixed with chondroitin. Additional remedies, such as Devil's Claw, also reduce the pain of arthritis. Because Devil's Claw works faster than most supplements (having some effect within 2 weeks, instead of 6 weeks such as glucosamine and chondroitin alone), we recommend Flexadin supplements.
            Omega 3 fatty acids (aka fish oils) are one of our favourites (and the cats love them too!) We are looking for 66 mg/kg dose of EPA or DHA fatty acids. If the bottle doesn't show the breakdown of the fatty acids, find one that does. You'll need a liquid for dosing cats! These take weeks to months to show benefits, so don’t give up too early. That said, they do not work for every patient; studies show anywhere from 50% to 75% of cases respond, even at correct doses.
             Other supplements that have been found to help include Green-lipped mussels, CBD, and turmeric, but remember that no one controls quality of supplements and little is known about dosing. Please discuss any product with your vet; they will be able to advise you about amounts and risks. 

             Cartrophen Vet (sodium pentosan polysulfate) is an injectable treatment for arthritis that promotes healing of joints and reduces inflammation. It is given as a subcutaneous (under the skin) injection once weekly for 4 weeks, then monthly. Often owners can learn to do them on their own at home, although we're also happy to help those who are more shy of needles! See this LINK for more information. We love this for our cats with allergies that limit oral supplements. It is also super safe even with advanced kidney disease and only has to be given once a month. it used to be our only monthly option. That has changed (see below)
 
4. NEW Solensia
               Modern medicine has come up with a unique approach to chronic diseases, the strategy first seen in the revolutionary injection 'Cytopoint' which blocks the itch of allergies but was NOT available cats. This is the first feline version of the technology. In short, Solensia is an inject that contains an antibody, not a drug. The antibody is cat-specific and blocks the nerve growth hormone that goes up in response to arthritic pain. The response has been amazing; the pain reduces. And because it's an antibody, it's broken down with the natural antibodies over time, leaving no strain on the organs. It lasts about 1 month from one shot and kicks in with 6 days. It's a huge advancement in safe arthritis management!

5. Pain medications
           We often have to use medications for pain relief periodically or chronically. Common medications include NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatories) are used cautiously in cats because they are processed by the kidneys and cats have a pendchant for kidney disease as they age. We also use gabapentin or opioids like buprenorphine as things worsen. We aim to reach the lowest effective dose but please remember: do not increase the amount or frequency of medications without consulting us. We are more likely to add other modalities than increase the dose of a given medication because of dangerous side effects.
 
Talk to us as your cat gets older and their behaviours change. We're here to help them age gracefully and comfortably!

To encourage people to make use of the NEW Online store, we've got FREE shipping NOW for orders over $50. Or if you'd rather, order online and have it delivered to us for pickup! Sorry; Sooke Vet clients only. Click below to get your account started today! This is a limited time offer!

As things settle a bit around here, some people are keen to get moving again! Here are a few things to think about before you head out!

If you're leaving your pet behind:
1. Please ensure you have enough food and medications for the duration of your absence, plus some. Sometimes pet sitters don't follow precisely the same routine, and you don't want to run out! 

2. Ensure your pet sitter or kennel/cattery has all the information they need, like your pets' vet name and number, your contact information, any wishes you have regarding their care, your pets' diets, and a list of all current medications.

3. Let your vet know you're traveling without your pet and who will be in charge. This also gives you a chance to discuss any wishes you have about potential treatment, vital for senior pets in particular. We are not legally allowed to treat your pet without your permission, so we need to know if you've assigned someone to act on your behalf. We don't want to be scrambling to reach you!

We love our pets and one of the things we get to do to show our affection is to feed them. They meet us for meals, or do tricks for treats, or chomp for chews! 

But is your beloved pet getting too wide? Being overweight is a common condition we face as veterinarians. So how can you tell?

You score your pet. 
 
Due to the huge variation within breeds, let alone across the species, it is impractical to simply assign a desired weight to any given cat or dog based on just its breed. Instead, veterinarians will use the 'Body Condition Score' (BCS) to explain if the pet is very thin, underweight, ideal, overweight, or obese. These exist in scales of 5 or 9. They aare done with 3 easy steps. Get hands on; a furry coat can trick us!
 
How to Body Condition Score

Step 1. Feel for the ribs
            Place your hand on the side of your pet's rib cage. If you can feel, without pressure, individual ribs under your hand already, you pet is probably too skinny. Now move your hand back and forth along the ribs, still without pushing (think of ruffling a kid's hair). Can you feel the ribs now? If you can and they feel 'like a box of pencils' then you're perfect and go to step 2. If you can't feel them, push a bit until you can find them. Everything you pushed through is fat, and there should be very little of it over the ribs. 
 
Step 2. Check the waistline. 
            Place your hands on either side of your pet's chest, while standing above or behind them. Bring your hands symmetrically towards their tail. Your hands should noticeably come closer together as they pass from the chest to the abdomen. All dogs (even bully breeds) should have a waistline, although some are less dramatic than others. All cats should have one too along the spine (not down near the belly though; some of them have extra skin there). If the pet is straight from shoulder to hip with no 'tuck', then they have too much fat!
 
Step 3. Check the belly. 
            While your pet is standing, place your hand on the lowest part of the chest underneath and run it towards the back end. Your hand should travel up as you reach the abdominal 'tuck'. This is usually the last spot to 'lose' as the pet becomes overweight so a flat belly (no tuck) is a strong sign your pet is overweight. However, remember that cats can hold extra skin dangling down there so don't count that! DO count the fat under the skin though.
 
 Now that you can assess your pet, check out the chart and decide where they fall. If 2.5-3, you're good! If higher, keep reading

 5 tips to Trim their Tummies!
 
1. Play the pounds away
            We'd all like to do more walking, and that can help too, but often we're already do as much as we can consistently schedule into our lives. So add in searching games. Hide dinner around the house or toss it into the yard. Use a Kong or other feeding toy. Cut holes in a box and invite them to toss it around to get the food to fall out. Even chasing tossed a kibbles down the hall burns fat.
 
2. Switch it around
            Vegetables make great treats instead of cookies. Try limited amounts of broccoli, peppers or green beans. Small amounts of apple or carrot can replace a dog cookie. Please remember: no grapes or raisins! Alternatively, use the kibble itself; set the dinner meal on the counter and pull each 'treat' from the bowl through the day. Whatever is left becomes dinner. They get their 'treat' and you control the calories.
 
3. Size does not matter
            To a pooch, a treat is a treat. The size isn't important. So break that treat, whatever it may be, into smaller fragments and give a fragment instead. Save the others for the next treat, or the next day.
 
4. Cutting back Calories
            That may mean a new brand, but weight loss diets may not be as good as they look; often they are as little as 5% different from their 'full fat' version. But you can also consider swapping to a canned food (so long as the 'per feeding' calorie intake is less and you take care of their teeth). You can also reduce the portion of the food being given. If they notice the volume change, soak the food to increase the volume (but don't forget their teeth like to chew, so check out our links about dental health!)
 
5. Let them guide you
            The feeding guidelines on the side of the bag are just that; guidelines. Many pets need less than the recommendations. If your pet is padded, adjust the calories down until they are lovely and lean. If summer adventures lower their weight, increase the calories until they are back to their ideal weight. Just remember to bring those calories back down when winter inactivity starts. Let their weight, energy and needs guide you.
            

Leaner pets live up to 2 years longer than their chubbier counterparts and experience fewer health problems. Act now; use these tips to trim their tummies and keep them with you, healthy and happy, for years to come. 

Unsure if your pet's weight is perfect yet? Check with your vet. The in-clinic scales are no-charge and the advice from the front desk staff can be priceless!

We wish we were posting to wish a Happy New Year to people, but sadly we've had a huge increase in COVID-19 in Sooke lately, including the Omicron variant that is threatening to take us out of action. In addition to precautions within the practice, we are implementing a temporary "curbside" regime once more. 

​While there will always be some exceptions for pets that need their people, overall we are reducing contacts by having only the animals enter our building. We want to be here for you and your pets. Please be patient with us as we get your animals the care they need!

1. Please call us from the parking lot upon your arrival so we can direct you.

2. For product pick ups, we will deliver the items to the downstairs door.

3. If you are arriving for an appointment, do not leave a message; call back or knock on the door. Once checked in, a staff member will call back (usually on an outgoing blocked number) to get the information, then will come collect your pet. The veterinarian will contact you via phone again to go over all information and discharge the pet.

4. If exceptions are required (such as euthanasia or extremely nervous pets unsafe without their owners), please minimize the number of people entering. We still require masks in our building for all staff and clients unless medical exemptions apply.

We are working with each individual animal and their owner to ensure our stellar care of the animals is maintained! Please talk to us if you have any questions!

It's that time of year again! Cheer and Celebration! Food and Festivities! Families and Friends!

But what about the Holiday Hazards that accompany our fun? As your home routine gets disrupted, there are some particular concerns for your pets during this time of year. We at Sooke Vet are here to help! To start, here are some hazards to be aware of and how to avoid them!
 
1. Toxins

While we like to wrap things under the tree or set up special decorations, it's important to recognize things that may be dangerous to your pet. Here are some commonly seen toxicities around the holidays.
       Plants:  Amaryllis, Azaleas, Chrysanthemums, Evergreens, Holly, Ivy, Juniper, Lilly, Mistletoe are all toxic. And yes, poinsettias are not great either, but they cause stomach upset, and ulcers in the mouth (so vomiting and diarrhea happen!) and are not considered poisonous. 
       Chocolate: Chocolate can cause arrhythmias, stomach upset, and death in high enough quantities. The amount of cocoa matters; the darker the chocolate, the worse the effect. Keep them away from your pets (yes, even cats)
       Raisins: Keep Fido away from the fruitcake! Raisins cause kidney failure in dogs! (It also applies to grapes, although that's less festive!)
         Macadamia nuts: It's a mild toxicity but can cause depression, vomiting, diarrhea, and weakness. 
            
        Make sure these items are away from your pet, even if wrapped. Their noses will detect the goodies within and might land you at the emergency clinic late one night!
 
2.  Electrical chords

Setting up lights and the tree look so lovely but watch that chords are not in an easily-reached location for a young animal. Most animals will out-grow this obsession with chewing wires, but some pets may re-discover their desire to chew when left alone or anxious. Give them appropriate chew things, and keep the chords away!
 
3. Ornaments and decorations:

        Decorations: Vets hate tinsel and ribbons. Why? Long thin items are fun for pets (especially cats), to play with, but then they might swallow them. And if the object tangles and can't pass, you're off to see a vet for an emergency surgery. Prevent that by not having these items available without supervision!
      Ornaments: Although more uncommon, hooks on the tree ornaments can cause grief too. The hooks can get stuck anywhere from through lips to half way down the intestines! Use a short loop of string and hang them out of reach!
          The tree: A curious pet can bring that tree down in an instant! Cats tend to like to climb the tree too. Secure it to the wall to prevent toppled treetops from ruining your morning. Ingestion of the needles is also not good, so keep it tidy!
 
4. Gifts

We love our pets and want to spoil them, and what better time than the holidays! But look out; not all toys and treats are a good idea. 
       Hard toys: Any toy should pass the 'kneecap test': if you don't want someone to hit you in the kneecap with it, don't buy it for your pet. Hard toys like antlers or bones are the leading cause of broken teeth down the road. Pick something firm but not hard, like a durable rubber toy or the newer 'indestructibles.' 
        Battery-operated toys: Because our pets like to chew and destroy, a battery can be a problem. Swallowing the battery is very dangerous! These toys are not for avid chewers and should be avoided.
          Squeakers: If your pet likes the squeak, get a toy that has a built-in squeak, not one of the cheap plastic UFO-shaped squeakers within. A bit of chewing can free that choking hazard from the toy. If it goes down to the stomach, the squeaker is also about the right size to get stuck somewhere along the intestines!
            Outfits: Tassels and bells and bows! So cute. So… edible?? Please avoid dangling things on outfits. It won't take long for something to end up in the stomach! Also make sure things fit properly so they don't chaff or impede breathing.
 
5.  Stress

For an anxious animal, changes are hard enough but add in new people, including potentially different types of people (like children!), and it's a recipe for significant stress. Look for these signs of stress in your pets, then look for ways to mitigate the impact of your visitors. 
            Signs of stress:
                        Panting without being hot or under exertion
                        Withdrawing/hiding
                        Barking (especially alarm barking)
                        Pacing
                        Shaking
                        Yawning when not tired
                        Hypervigilence (constantly looking around)
                        Avoidance behaviours (eg sniffing something, turning away, ignoring)
                        Changes in posture (cowering, slinking etc.)
                        Ears back
                        Eyes wide

• Ensure your pet has a safe place like a kennel or a room that is separate. Put in water, food (if appropriate), hiding spots, litter (if applicable), and familiar toys. You can also use white noise (e.g., radio) to block some noise. If the pet retreats to their space, NO ONE is allowed to bother them. 
• Do NOT force interactions.
• Keep things positive by having guests provide treats or toys. If they can play, stress is reduced. You can also use training- giving them something to focus on is helpful (like commands or tricks)
• Try to ensure they are tired and calm before the visits start. Exercise is a huge stress reliever. 
• Consider supplements or pheromone therapies to help in advance, like adaptil, zylkene, anxitane, mallows, or others. 
• For extreme stresses, talk to your vet about anti-anxiety options WELL in advance as medications often require many weeks to take full effect. The right one may take a bit of trial and error too!

 
We hope everyone gets to enjoy the festive season with their furry loved ones and, with a bit of foresight and planning, not have to visit any emergency clinic! Happy Holidays!
 
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To help make accessing food and treats for your loved pets easier, we've launched a Vetstore online portal. Click on the link to set up an account. Once you're verified as a client of ours, you'll get access to the online store, which includes all your pet foods, treats, and toys! You can order 24/7 for delivery to the clinic (arrival Tuesdays and Fridays) or order for delivery right to your door! We're not quite ready to do it for medications, but for food and treats, it's a convenient option to get your pet what they need on time! 

So check out www.myvetstore.ca/sookevet today! 

But first... 
      A quick news point; Our distributor has run into some delays with the shipment of pet foods. This has meant food orders (NOT medications) are being delayed by 1-2 orders. That means 3-7 days delays from normal delivery. If your pet is on a prescription diet, please plan a bit farther ahead and order in advance so we can ensure we get the food in before you run out! 

And now... all about puppies and socialization!

During the first three months of life puppies go through a period where curiosity outweighs fear. It is EXTREMELY important to socialize your puppy with new people, animals, stimuli and environments during this time, to prevent or at least reduce behavioural problems later in life. All training should be based on fun-for-all, through frequent praise and/or treats for desired behaviors. As this receptive period occurs before your puppy is fully vaccinated, precautions need to be taken.

Recommendations for socialization include:

1. Handle your puppy from birth to help accept manipulation of all body parts. Include mouth and ears in a positive, fun manner.
2. Exposure your puppy to as many different people, situations, places and well-socialized animals (who are up to date with vaccines) as you can.
   
3. Puppies who have not had their second vaccination should only be socialized with animals who are up to date on their own vaccines, in areas not frequented by many animals to minimize risk. Having some friends bring dogs over is safer than going to a dog park at this age
   
4. One week after their second vaccine (~13 weeks) puppies can go to public parks and for walks on the street/sidewalk and can mix with other animals (although we still recommend sticking to known friendly animals to avoid traumatizing exposures)
5. Encourage exploration, investigation and manipulation of their environments.
   1. Use games and include a variety of surfaces.
   2. Include some alone play time to encourage independence.
   3. Habituate the pup to a crate as a safe place to rest. Hide treats and give prized toys during these ‘quiet times’.
6. Bring your puppy on car trips, starting with short trips and working up to longer ones. 
7. Attend puppy socialization classes;
   1. Start as early as 7-8 weeks of age, with a minimum of ONE set of vaccines (distemper, adenovirus, parainfluenza, parvovirus) at least seven days prior to the first class.
   2. Keep them up to date with vaccines throughout the class
   3. Consider intra-nasal or oral kennel cough (aka bordetella) vaccination at least three days before starting the class.
8. Continue active socialization into adulthood to maintain an outgoing, confident, and sociable dog.

 
If your puppy displays signs of fear and is not thriving, we encourage you to schedule a consultation. We can discuss ways to reduce anxiety and positively reinforce good behaviour to develop a balanced, well adjusted dog for life!
 
References:
Modified from the AVSAB Position Statement on Puppy Socialization